Buddhist practices have always been close to my heart. In Nepal, especially in the Kathmandu Valley, Buddhism and Hinduism have blended together in a delightful way that permeates all religious households, regardless of which religion you follow.
Even though I was born into a Hindu household, my family took many of Tibetan Buddhist ideas into consideration. In fact, every weekend we made our rounds from Hindu temples to Buddhist stupas, without ever questioning why we did it. And it still baffles me when I have to explain my religious tendencies to friends, those who believe that a person can only follow one religion at a time.
Clearly, I was exposed to buddhist teachings and practices from an early age. Growing up near two UNESCO World Heritage sites for Buddhism- Swoyambhunath and Bouddhanath, and a pilgrimage site for Hinduism- Pashupatinath, I was compelled to learn many of the little traditions and practices that often go unnoticed.
In both religions- Hinduism and Buddhism , circumambulation is very common. I’ve circumambulated around Hindu temples while my mum said prayers, and I’ve walked around stupas as my father burnt incense.
However, the idea of circumambulation that I would like to highlight here is skewed more towards the Buddhist side.
What is Circumambulation ?
Source of text:
Drawing by James Culleton
Bowker, John, The Oxford Dictionary of World Religions, New York, Oxford University Press, 1997, p. 224
Circumambulation (also known as Kora in Buddhism) is a pilgrimage that involves circling a sacred structure, object or place. It can be man-made, such as stupas, temples, and monasteries, or even natural sites like lakes and mountains ( the infamous Mount Kailash is considered to be the most sacred of all).
Source : SushiLaya
The word ‘Kora’ comes from a mix of two different words- ‘kor’ and ‘a’. The Tibetan word ‘Kor’ means a circle and the added ‘a’ comes from the Latin ambulare “to walk”. Together these words mean to walk in a circle, or to walk as you circle something.
History of the Kora
During the time of Buddha, he spent a significant amount of his time under the Bodhi tree. After his teachings started scouring the lands, many students and disciples would come visit him for knowledge, and/or to simply pay their respects.
As Buddha aged, one of his disciples asked him where his devotees would go to pay their respects, in the event that he was no longer present. To this Gautamn Buddha pointed to his beloved tree and suggested that walking around it, mindful of its significance, would be a good way to pay their respects.
As Buddhism spread around the world, monuments in the classic dome-shaped structure began to rise (commonly known as stupas). These are solid structures that visitors cannot enter (except high priests assigned to tend them), so devotees walk around them, much like the Bodhi Tree. This practice of circumambulation around significant structures and places has become a common practice in Buddhist culture.
The Kora is also often likened to the revolving of the heavenly bodies in the universe. There is a perpetual rotation of the world around its axis, with the Earth rotating around the Sun. In the same way as all planets in our Solar System orbit around the Sun, Circumambulation is done with the deity as the centre as we revolve around them.
Significance of doing a Kora
The Kora signifies that the Deity, or the sacred place/object, is the centre of our existence. As the centre point is always fixed and remains the same, this helps one’s thoughts (and lives) to remain grounded.
It is a practice that not only offers respects to the Buddha and other important Buddhist teachers, it also gives us an opportunity for a meditative practice to fully immerse ourselves in a mindful activity, in a sacred location. It allows a powerful and positive energy to be shared among all who perform a Kora, and even rewires the brain and heart.
The psychological and physical benefits of a Kora are well-known, but above all, it remains a popular practice among many Buddhists as a way to always remain compassionate and mindful of yourself, your surroundings and a higher power that governs you.
Some Kora FAQs
The act of Circumambulation is often seen to be performed clockwise for Buddhists and is often taken as a sacred meditative activity.
Why is it clockwise?
A clockwise motion is usually used for a Kora as it is believed that energy expands in a clockwise motion around a deity (or any sacred object). Inorder to be in the same loop of positive energy, these activities are performed in a clockwise motion.
Also, an established direction means that everyone who performs the Kora moves in the same direction (often at the same time of day). This allows for a collective energy exchange between all participants.
A Kora is often done while counting on a Mala (a beaded necklace), Spinning prayer wheels and/or repeatedly prostrating oneself on the ground. The number of times one does this depends on the sacred location, or often on oneself. However, the number used is usually an odd number that is a 3 or higher.
Source : SushiLaya
Why odd numbers?
The odd number of countings done in a Kora only consists of numbers 3 and higher. The reason being, the number 3 often refers to a 3 step process.
The first circumambulation is to shed and unwind yourself from your worldly possessions and materialism.
The second circumambulation signifies disconnecting yourself from the attachments.
In the third and final circumambulation, you should unwind and disconnect from your own ego and sense of self. Thus, you disconnect yourself from materialism, attachments & ego.
This is then repeated at will (in 7s, 9s, and so on) emphasizing on the same idea of letting go.
How is Prostrating done?
Although most practitioners will be seen performing the Kora by walking around the sacred site, the most devout will make their way around by fully prostrating on the ground, standing up, and repeating the actions from where their extended hands previously reached.
Source : SushiLaya
(Pictured here is Bouddhanath where special areas are allocated to be used for prostration so as to avoid busy areas and streets. Sourced from SushiLaya)
An even more extreme version of this form of meditation is the horizontal prostration, where the practitioner will make the slow progression in steps no larger than the width of a small step.
Popular Kora Locations for Buddhist practitioners
Source : SushiLaya
A Kora, inherently, is a form of Pilgrimage. Practitioners from all over the world are often seen making long arduous trips around Tibet, parts of Nepal and even India for their Kora.
One of the most sacred places in Tibetan Buddhism is the Potala Palace- a UNESCO World Heritage site located in Lhasa. This was also one the residences of the Dalai Lama.
Also in Lhasa is the Lingkhor Kora, which is a circuit around the Lhasa district.
One of the most auspicious locations for a Kora is Mount Kailash, one of the holiest mountains in the world. This Kora can take upto 3 days (with multiple rest stops on the way).
In the city, there are spots in Nepal such as Lumbhini – the birth place of Buddha, and Swoyambhunath and Bouddhanath in the Kathmandu Valley.
How can you perform a Circumambulation as a mindful practice?
Buddhism has been known to be a religion for all, to be practiced at will of one’s own choosing. While practices and teaching often vary from different regions, incorporating these practices in our daily lives can be a wonderful start to feel connected to the teachings of Buddha.
The idea here is to use the practice of circumambulating for a mindful experience, as a way to disconnect from ones’ ego, worldly possessions, and reach a state of tranquility. And the best way to do this is to learn the history, appreciate the teachings, and be respectful as you go about it.
Source : SushiLaya